Sarah Fisher is a TTEAM Instructor and runs the TTEAM training Centre in the UK which is home to 22 horses. She works at rehabilitation yards around the UK including the Thoroughbred Rehabilitation centre in Lancashire and contributes regular features for national and international magazines including YOUR HORSE magazine. Sarah has ridden horses since the age of four and owns a variety of horses including OTTO, who despite a major fall as a two year old, has gone on to win a variety of classes at county and national level including Show Hunter, Coloured Ridden Horse, Dressage and Working Hunter thanks to TTEAM.

If you consistently struggle to get your horse working through from behind the chances are he has poor balance. So much attention is often paid to the hindquarters to improve hind limb action that the source of the problem may be over looked. By freeing up the horse's neck (see part one) and the shoulders with the exercises described below, the fore quarters are able to work more efficiently thus enabling the powerful hindquarters to function more effectively.

The conformation of the shoulders determines stride length to a certain extent. The angle or slope of the shoulder should be similar to the angle of the pastern and the slope of the hoof wall. Tension and restricted movement in the shoulders will create balance problems and is usually accompanied by tension in the neck, back and hindquarters.

A horse that is tight in the shoulder may balance or lean on the handler and the riders' hands since he finds it hard to work in a balanced frame. The gait will be uneven and the horse may be girthy as tension in the shoulder is often accompanied by sensitivity around the girth area. Some horses with tension around the girth area may buck when asked to move forward or when mounted. The horse with this Tension Pattern may be stiff through the whole body and lack impulsion from behind since the shoulders must be free to allow hind limb engagement. He may stand base narrow, with the front feet close together and may hold his elbows close to the rib cage or stand habitually with one forelimb forward or out to the side. Horses with tension through the chest and shoulders may be inclined to strike or paw the ground when concerned. Tension in this area can be as a result of an uneven rider, a fall, rough play with another horse, lack of education, poor saddle fit, tight rugs, poor conformation or birth trauma. The horse may develop unevenly through the shoulders and chest and the conformation of the front limbs and hooves may vary with the feet being different shapes or one knee or shoulder looking higher than the other. He may find it hard to lift through the withers and will have tight muscles in front of or behind the shoulder blade. There may be thickening over the top of the scapula. Under saddle the horse may continually throw the rider forward and to one side thus exacerbating the problem.

Rikki Schultz, a veterinary surgeon based in Denmark who uses TTEAM, chiropractic work and acupuncture, treats many horses suffering from what she describes as Cervico-thoracal Syndrome. This can occur as a result of an injury such as a kick to the chest by another horse, from the horse running into a fence post or from the horse flipping over backwards for example. It results in rotation of the lower cervical vertebrae and the first thoracic vertebrae, which has a knock on effect through the rest of the body. Rikki has treated many horses successfully that suffer from some of the symptoms associated with this condition and would like more research done in this area. She believes that the condition may also originate from birth trauma in some instances with the foal developing a club or more upright foot on one side as it matures. It is certainly food for thought and gives other possibilities for correct diagnosis and treatment of horses with otherwise inexplicable front limb lameness.

Hollowing behind the shoulders is often accompanied by a dip in the neck muscles in front of the wither, and raised, hardened areas on the top of the shoulder blade. Contrary to popular opinion this is not just due to conformation or breed specific as in the thoroughbred but is linked to improper muscle development through poor saddle fit, injury, dental issues or inappropriate training. If the muscles are allowed to develop properly by addressing the underlying cause these areas often fill out very quickly and a top line is achieved.

As the horse develops behind the shoulders, the chest will follow suit. Conformation obviously plays a part in determining the general frame of the horse but the chest is a good indicator of how the horse is working through the shoulders and first part of the back. Lack of muscle behind the shoulder or restricted movement through the base of the neck and shoulders will often be accompanied by a narrow chest or uneven and over developed chest muscles.

In addition, the horse is likely to:

• Trip or stumble
• Have a short, choppy and/or uneven stride
• Be spooky
• Lean on the bit
• Be difficult to rug and/or saddle up
• Fall in through the shoulder through turns and circles
• Find it hard to strike off on a particular rein
• Leave a front limb behind when jumping
• Struggle to travel and/or load
• Find it hard to bring the front limb forward for the farrier
• Throw up the head in upward and downward transitions
• Reactive to movement
• Poke the nose when ridden
• Nod head
• Head shake
• Struggle with lateral work

Whilst the exercises below will help the horse to move more freely through the shoulders, correct saddle fit is of the utmost importance for the ridden horse. Saddle fit can be a confusing and emotive subject for many horse owners but saddle damage is one of the primary causes of unwanted behaviour in horses. As well as causing sore shoulders poor saddle fit can result in loss of muscle tone, a dropped back, high head carriage, a sore back, a sore neck, bucking, an inability to go forward from the leg, biting, kicking out against the riders leg, difficulties with transitions and turns, problems with engagement, grinding teeth or lifting a leg when girthed, spooky behaviour, bolting and so on. In an attempt to minimise discomfort in the thoracic part of the spine the horse may drop one side of its pelvis. With many different saddle types and makes on the market it is hard to know which one is going to be most suitable for your horse and no type of saddle will work for every single horse/rider combination. It is worth spending time getting the right help for your horse and exploring the options available to minimise the risk of making a very expensive mistake.

Knowing what to look for in a saddle can help you find the best possible choice and will enable you to look for early signs that the saddle is not fitting correctly. If you are starting out with a horse that is over weight, has been out of work for some time or who has had muscle loss through a previously ill fitting saddle it is worth working them in hand for a while until the posture improves. Once the horse is free to move through the shoulder a hollow back will start to fill almost immediately. Some horses change several inches in diameter in a matter of months. If you are starting with a horse with a poor posture a saddle that gives you more options to alter the width is far more cost effective than having to replace the saddle every few weeks. The best choice in this scenario would be to investigate saddles with an adjustable tree, adjustable panels, a padding system that gives you the flexibility to make changes to the saddle as the posture improves or a treeless saddle.

A well fitting saddle should not inhibit the movement of the horse in any way or cause discomfort or pain. Bald patches, sensitive areas, raised areas, a scuffed coat, uneven hair or grease on the saddle pad or panels, blowing out the belly when girthed, reduced performance or reactive behaviour to the saddle being brought into the stable or being put on can be some of the early signs that the saddle may not be fitting as well as it should. Other factors do of course come in to play and can influence how the saddle fits. Dental abnormalities, fluctuating weight, an unbalanced rider or incorrect placement of the saddle on the horse's back will have a direct effect on the fit.

Whilst it is important to employ the help of a good saddle fitter there are still checks that you can do to see if your existing saddle is of an appropriate fit.

Saddle Check

Stand your horse on even ground and ask someone to hold him so that his head and neck can be kept as straight as possible. Place the saddle on the back slightly forward over the withers and slide the saddle back until it stops at a natural resting place. The saddle should sit well behind the shoulder allowing for approximately one hands width between the back of the elbow and the girth. Sitting saddles too far forward is a common mistake and will alter the balance and fit of the saddle as well as inhibiting movement through the shoulder. When looking at the saddle from the side (both sides) it should be balanced with the seat level. If the saddle slopes uphill or downhill the rider will be seated incorrectly and will tip forward or back. This will cause back problems for both the person and the horse.

Run your hand down the front of the panel between the saddle and your horse's back and feel for any uneven pressure under the points. The front panel should not pinch the withers or the back of the shoulders in any area. The back of the saddle should not be past the last rib. A saddle that is too long will put pressure on the vulnerable loin area.

While maintaining pressure on the top of the saddle, run your hand, palm up, under the entire panel along the back feeling for even contact and a smooth surface. Check for any points of pressure or lack of panel contact to see whether the panels sit evenly on the back. If the fit is incorrect, bridging will occur and there will be a space between the middle of the panels and the horses back. If a saddle bridges there will usually be four points of pressure on the horse's back - two at the front of the saddle and two at the back. Pressure at the front of the saddle can contribute to spooking and rushing and pressure from the back of the saddle can trigger bucking. Pay attention to the area of the stirrup bar. Some saddles fit adequately in terms of tree width but place pressure on the horse's back under the stirrup bars.

Check that there is adequate clearance between the pommel and the top of the horse's withers. With your hand placed sideways between the pommel and the withers there should be enough room for three fingers in most cases.

The channel or gullet of the saddle should also allow for adequate clearance over the spine and connective tissue. A channel that is too narrow, generally less than three fingers width, will impede the horse's movement and limit the horse's ability to turn. It may cause raised bumps along either side of the spine. To check whether the gullet is wide enough for your horse feel the width of his spine and connective tissue with your fingers and estimate that width. The channel of the saddle should completely clear this width, enabling the saddle to sit comfortably on the long back muscle without putting pressure on any part of the spine.

Ask someone to run through the same checks once you are in the saddle. Once the horse is moving check that the saddle doesn't move excessively. If the fit is incorrect the saddle may move from side to side, forwards or back, or up and down. Make a note of how you feel once in the saddle. Do you feel balanced or do you feel as though you are tipping slightly sideways, forward or back? Does the horse feel even beneath you or do you feel as though you are being thrown consistently towards one shoulder? Do you feel as though you are blocking the movement of the horse with one hip?

Throughout the whole saddling process, listen to the horse. He is after all the one that has to wear the saddle. Watch for any changes in his eye or ear and be aware of more obvious signs that the horse is concerned as you tack him up and run through the checks. Be aware of how the horse responds once saddled. Does he stand quietly in a relaxed manner for you to mount or is he actually in Freeze? Does he move forwards, backwards or sideways? Does he stand waiting for you to give him an aid to move off once you are mounted or does he move forward the moment your foot is in the stirrup? Is the horse's movement free and rhythmic under saddle or does it feel restricted and un-level? Can he stretch and lengthen his body when asked or does he poke his nose or lift his head? Does he jig?

The fit of anything under the saddle such as protective pads or the saddle cloth is also important for the comfort of the horse. Saddle cloths and pads that are shaped to accommodate the withers are less likely to cause pressure problems. If the saddle cloth moves when the horse is working it may be that the cut of the cloth is unsuitable for the shape of the horse or that the saddle is not fitting correctly.

Body Work

Front Leg Circles

Moving a horse's front legs in small clockwise and anti-clockwise circles can help loosen stiff shoulders, and release the neck and upper part of the back. It can help increase circulation to the lower limb and hoof and is a quick and easy way of helping horses that are stabled for long hours during the winter and elderly horses that stiffen up during the colder weather. Leg circles can be done when the hooves are picked out. You may find that the horse can circle some legs more easily than others or is significantly stiffer through one limb. In addition Front Leg Circles are also helpful for:

• Developing a more even gait
• Encouraging hind limb engagement
• Helping the horse to lower his neck and release his top line
• Improving balance
• Helping with loading and travelling issues

When standing on the near side support the front fetlock joint with your left hand and support the hoof with your right hand. Keep your thumb on top of the hoof wall or shoe to minimise the risk of being caught in the face if the horse lifts his leg. Supporting the fetlock joint prevents tension being placed on this joint. You can rest your right elbow on your right knee or thigh to prevent tension in your back. Make sure your feet are in a position that enables you to stand in balance and away from the hoof in case the leg is snatched back and put down. Circle your body slowly to get the movement through the leg. Keep the range of movement small - taking the leg as far as it will go will cause bracing.

My horse doesn't like Front Leg Circles

If the horse is tight in the shoulder or nervous about having his legs handled in general he may be concerned about this exercise. To make it easier for your horse:

• Stroke the leg with the back of your hand
• Use the wand and TTouches to initiate contact on the legs
• Ask the horse to pick up his leg and then allow him to release it without doing the circles
• Do a tiny half circle with the leg
• Rock the fetlock to release tension in the leg
• Pick up the limb and circle it from the opposite side
• Check that your aren't inadvertently pulling the leg out to the side
• Keep the circles small to begin with
• Try the other exercises described below

Shoulder Delineation

This exercise is used by TTEAM and Connected Riding. It helps horses to alter habitual patterns of bracing through the shoulder and base of the neck and is useful for improving the horse's ability to transfer his centre of gravity in transitions. Shoulder Delineation is also helpful for horses that fall through the shoulder or for those that have a short or irregular stride. Shoulder Delineation is also useful for:

• Improving hind limb engagement
• Releasing the jaw
• Horses that work above or behind the vertical
• Preparing a horse to work with the Balance Rein or Neck Ring
• Horses that struggle with travelling or the farrier

Start on the near side of the horse. Face forward and hold the lead line in your left hand. If your horse is likely to mouth or bite hold the line up by the head collar. Keep your knees soft, and with your body slightly rotated and folded at the hip place your fingers at the top of the shoulder just below the withers in the front ridge of the shoulder blade. With your fingers together and pointing downwards, follow the line of the groove in front of the shoulder blade. Curve your fingers and continue down the groove. You will probably notice the shoulder is less easily delineated at the top and the bottom of the groove. This will be linked in part to how your horse has been bracing through the base of his neck, chest and shoulders. If there are tight areas bring the horse's head slightly towards you to encourage more of a release. Repeat a couple of times and then switch the lead line to the other side and work on the opposite shoulder.

My horse doesn't like Shoulder Delineation

Horses that have braced through the shoulders for some time, have had dental problems, have adopted an uneven posture or have incorrect muscle development may be sensitive through the shoulders. Start by:

• Walking your finger tips lightly down the groove.
• Doing small circular TTouches around the whole shoulder area
• Rocking the Withers
• Teaching the horse how to lower his head
• Trying the exercises for releasing tension in the neck
• Slow the work down and lighten the pressure

Rocking the Withers

Although Rocking the Withers can be used as part of the initial observations when assessing a horse it is also a beneficial exercise that can help release tight shoulders and withers. It can be done whilst the horse is standing still or can be done in hand as the horse is moving. Rocking the Withers helps the horse to open up through the chest and ribcage, lengthens the stride and encourages lift through the back and hind limb engagement.

Rocking the Withers can also be used for:

• Helping the horse to stand still
• Encouraging controlled forward movement in a horse that has become stuck or gone into Freeze
• Teaching the horse to transfer his weight from side to side
• Encouraging the horse to weight his limbs more evenly

Place one hand palm down over the horse's withers cupping the highest point. Place one foot in front of the other and keep your hips and knees soft. Keep an even connection through your arm and hand. Transfer your weight slowly onto your front foot. This will send the withers away from you. Pause for a moment and then slowly transfer your weight onto your back foot. This will bring the withers towards you. Repeat this a few times. Note whether one side is freer than the other and pay attention to how your horse re-organises himself during this exercise.

My horse doesn't like Rocking the Withers

If the horse is tight through the shoulders, has sensitive withers or has spent a significant amount of time loading one limb unevenly he may be unsure about this exercise. Try.

• Placing the flat of your right hand on the shoulder and think about asking the horse to move slightly away from you. Support the shoulder and think about gradually releasing the shoulder to allow him to move back slowly towards you
• Asking him to do the exercise on the move
• Shoulder Delineation to release the base of the horse's neck
• Walking him over raised poles to encourage the withers to lift and release

Groundwork

Raised Poles

When a horse lifts a front leg over a pole, the neck should lower and the withers and shoulders should lift and release. The exception to this is if the horse is tight through the neck, shoulders or back. Walking a horse in hand over raised poles can help horses release and connect through the neck and back. In addition it can be useful for:

• Teaching engagement
• Horses that work in a high headed frame
• Horses that are easily distracted
• Loading problems
• Transitions

You will need a minimum of two poles and four blocks or two cavalettis. The distance between the poles can be geared to the individual stride of each horse. If possible ask someone to watch you work or teach someone how to do the exercise so that you can make observations as to how the horse is organising himself over the poles.

Attach the TTEAM line as described in the Ear and Poll section or clip your lead rope onto the side. Take the end of the lead rope and the wand in the outside hand and place your other hand on the line near the head collar. Position yourself a little in front of the horse's nose to encourage straightness and even movement through the fore quarters. Lead your horse up to the poles and halt a couple of strides in front of the first pole. Stroke down the horse's chest and front legs with the wand, then ask your horse forward over the poles with a slight ask and release signal on the line. Slide down the line away from the halter as you ask to give the horse more freedom through the neck and the head as he walks over the poles. Give a forward movement with the wand. Look in the direction in which you are going and try to feel how the horse is organising his body through the lead line. Is his head heavy in your hand, is there a lot of up and down movement through his neck and head or is he pulling in one direction? Some horses will initially lift their head, trip over the poles, lift one limb higher than the others, catch each pole with the same limb or scramble their way awkwardly through the exercise but generally in a very short space of time the movements become fluid, the neck releases and the withers really free and lift.

My horse doesn't like raised poles

If your horse is unsure about poles he may struggle with this exercise. You can introduce the work gradually by:

• Starting with one pole flat on the ground
• Adding more poles one by one so that you end up with a row of four poles flat on the ground
• Raising the ends of the poles one at a time

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